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Gondo Crack, 8c, Trad

For a long time, this unique crack remained unclimbed. Until it was free climbed in April 2017 by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher. First, they climbed it with bolts and the same day without. Last week I was able to realize another clean ascent of "gondo crack". My most difficult route without bolts so far. As a passionate crack climber this route has been on my wish list for a long time because it is one of the most difficult routes of this kind in Europe. Although the route has bolts, I always knew that I will not use them, because it can be well belayed with friends. It was also a great opportunity to combine mental control and climbing at your personal limit. The route is only about 20 meters long and consists of two parts. The lower part consists of moderate, sustained climbing to a good resting position. In this section you shouldn’t fall at some points. Then 6 moves lead to the crux, where a final Friend can be placed. This is followed by a boulder with 8 athletic moves on side holds and crimps. The last and most difficult move is about 6 meters above the last placement. If you fall there, there is a long flight that ends just a few meters above the ground. All the greater was the joy when, after a few long falls, I was able to hold the last ledge and climb the route.


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